Bark river knife and tool vagabond knife

Bark River effectively uses a variety of new "super steels," and many of their knives still employ A-2 carbon tool steel as well. These knives have gained favor among outdoorsmen worldwide for their superior edge-holding, perfect geometry and top-performing heat treatments.

Best every day carry knife? We field test the Bark River Incidentally, the two knives, both with green canvas micarta handles, look great together! Just get an old axe. Theyre a lot cheaper to replace when they break than a Bark River is lol As far as steel goes, I like A2. I would like to be able use it for small camp tasks and dress an elk if possible. Bartendery - bark river knives models most suitable for These products are aimed for use by outdoorsmen and others who need real performance in the field.

At Bark River the emphasis is on maximum performance of its products. We specifically instructed Mike Stewart, president and designer of BRKT, to design and build this knife to exceed the performance of any EDC knife on the market regardless of cost.

The Bark River Essential measures Bartendery - bark river shining mountain knife most This pattern is one of the most commonly identifiable of all of the Bowie Patterns. It can be recognized as an early Bowie knife but was actually inspired by the work of the late John Nelson Cooper in the s as His Iron Mistress. Bark River Knives - Knife Works tip knifeworks. Perfection in a practical knife?

Review The Bark River Essentially, the Gunny is a smaller, more compact Bravo. I've been using a Gunny for several years now, and it is the knife I use for just about everything. Is it the best survival knife? Both my Tundras were re-ground to full convex at the Bark River factory, and they work really, really well. As far as I'm concerned convex is best.

The black micarta handle on this Bark River Kalahari got "tackier" when it got blood and body fluids on it. What makes Bark River Knives so special? After all, in the basis the Gameskeeper was a hunting knife and needed a couple of adjustments to make it perfect for bushcraft purposes.

The result was the Bark River Bravo 1. Today this model is available with different types of steel. Useful Blogs. Video Result. Bark River Knives - Mini Gunny Bark River Knife Comparison Bark River Knives - Presentation of the larger models Bark River Pro Scalpel 2 knife review Review Bark River Bravo 2 Knife Bark River Knives Tracker - first Review Bark River VS Fallkniven Bark River Deer and Deer Hunting knife review Bark River Little Creek Overview Bravo1 3V LT review Bark River Bravo 1 Bark River Bravo Tope Recon table top review We review the Bark River Snowy River Bark River Quartermaster Overview Bark River Knives Brush Knife I'm sure the knife you choose will be the right one for Country of Manufacture United States.

Blade Length 5". Blade Thickness. Overall Length 9. Edge Type Plain. Knife Type Fixed Knives. Handedness Ambidextrous. Best Use Everyday Carry. Product Type Knife. Model BAWB. Knife Style EDC. Blade Style Drop Point. Handle Color Wood. Handle Material Bocote Wood.

To start with, we'll focus on appearance. First, here's what a matte finish looks like on black linen Micarta, compared to a standard finish below.

As you'd expect, the matte finish isn't as shiny. You'll also notice that matte-black Micarta is somewhat grayish compared to the standard finish. On other colors -- like green G and maroon Micarta -- the color difference between the two finishes is much more striking. Perhaps the most dramatic shift is with natural canvas Micarta below. Although we've shown these finishes as they appear on Micarta, you'll see comparable differences on G You're probably guessing that a matte finish is "grippier" than a glossy standard finish.

And you'd be right -- up to a point. The difference in grip isn't nearly as great as you might think. For practical purposes, they're pretty much the same. Micarta and G knife handles are smooth, regardless of finish. That's a good thing, because the grippier the handle, the more likely it is to give you "hot spots" in prolonged use. A properly designed knife handle moves in the hand. Grip comes from the handle's ergonomic shape, not from its finish or material.

Let's say you try the standard finish and find yourself wishing for matte. You can make that happen yourself -- use a Scotch-Brite pad and some grease-cutting dishwashing liquid, and gently scrub the surface to a finish you like better. Go slowly, adjusting your handle's finish a little at a time. Don't use steel wool, and don't soak your knife in water soapy or otherwise. On the other hand, if you have a matte handle and decide you'd like to try a glossier finish, apply some paste-type car wax and buff away.

Finally, if you own a Bark River knife and you're not much of a do-it-yourselfer, you always have the option of sending it to the Bark River Spa. The standard finish used on Micarta and G by Bark River Knives involves polishing the material with very fine grit, followed by applying a wax compound to the surface and buffing it to a gloss.

You can make that happen yourself -- using a Scotch-Brite pad and some grease-cutting dishwashing liquid, gently scrub the surface to a finish you like better. By the way, don't worry about messing up -- modifying your handle in this way won't void the Bark River warranty. Finally, if you're not much of a do-it-yourselfer, you always have the option of sending your knife to the Bark River Spa.

For more information, see our primer on matte vs. We understand the feeling of comfort, at least initially, of picking up a knife with handle slabs of Kraton or other rubberized material, and there are plenty of fixed-blade knives available with soft, "grippy" handles.

Mike Stewart and his crew at Bark River Knives take a different approach. Bark River designs its knives to be used, used hard, and used hard for extended periods.

A poorly designed or "grippy" knife handle creates "hot spots" that make building a shelter or field-dressing large game, for example, downright painful. A properly designed knife handle accommodates a variety of grips -- it should move in the hand.

The "grip" should come from the handle's ergonomic shape, not from its material. We sell a lot of wood-handled knives. If you've ever looked at KnivesShipFree's selection of Bark River or Northwoods knives, you know exactly why -- they're absolutely gorgeous.

The only down-side to a wood handle, really, is that it can be prone to expansion and contraction. That's because wood is porous -- that is, it has natural pores and passages. Wood used for modern knife handles is thoroughly dried often in a kiln before it's cut into slabs and shaped. Some of the softer and less-dense types of wood are also "stabilized.

The stabilizing process involves impregnating the wood with industrial resin. The objective is to fill any voids and pores with material that's unlikely to be affected by changes in temperature and humidity. It also goes a long way toward making the wood tougher. Even the best stabilized wood, however, still can expand and contract -- it may not, but if it does it's simply a characteristic of the material.

Knifemakers do their best to prevent it, but it can happen. If you have a wood-handled knife and notice that either the tang or the handle is slightly "proud" contraction or expansion of the wood, respectively , you have a few options. The first, obviously, is to acknowledge that it's simply the nature of the wooden beast and accept it. It'll probably expand or contract back into place eventually anyway. An alternative would be to contact the knifemaker and have the handle re-finished.

Most reputable 'makers will do this work under warranty at no charge to you. If you go this route, keep in mind that the "fix" may be only temporary -- wood is still wood. Your third option, if you simply can't abide wood's quirks, would be to buy knives with handles made of synthetic materials like Micarta, G or acrylic.

In the end, you'll need to decide if wood's unique beauty is worth the possibility that it may grow or shrink a little bit. While all wood is beautiful in it's own way, some wood is simply not suited for knife handles. Natural materials that make the cut have to be resilient, durable, stable, and attractive. Wood handles such as Arizona Desert Ironwood , Snakewood , and Lignum Vitae are by nature incredibly hard materials -- if you've ever had to cut Ironwood you know where the name comes from!

These species of woods make fantastic knife handles. They not only accept abuse, but ask for more. More important that durability for most knife users, is stability. The materials previous mentioned are are dense enough that they are naturally stable and not as susceptible to warping or shrinking as other natural materials. Softer woods that are not naturally stable require an industrial process before they can be used for handle materials.